Once infamous for its excesses, the influential restaurant from mercurial chef Michael Carlson has transformed into a fertile proving ground for Chicago’s next generation of young culinary talent. Now that it’s all grown up, has Schwa lost its edge?
Anyone avoiding Xoco because of the daunting lines Rick Bayless’s "quick-serve" Mexican street-food joint should know that the Chef Who Can Do No Wrong provides plenty to think about during the wait: the chalkboard menu lists a half-dozen caldos and nine or ten tortas (from the wood-fired oven or the griddle). And action fans can thrill to the battery of line cooks frenetically constructing meals a few arm’s lengths away. Still, there’s a certain variety… read full review »